glesenptpl

SOL/LUNA editorial · CAL table

glesenptpl

SOL/LUNA editorial · CAL table

FAQ

How can you read whether a beach will handle the swell?

To judge whether a beach will handle the swell, look at height, period, direction, tide, wind, and the kind of coastline or bank the spot has. A beach handles swell well when the incoming energy matches its exposure and bottom shape rather than overwhelming them. A matching longer-period swell on the right tide can stand up on a sandbank. Short wind-driven chop on a too-high tide often dumps as whitewater. Wind on the face can ruin an otherwise matching swell in an hour.
Keep reading
How swell works on the Galician coastWhy wind direction is only half the story
faqsurf-scienceforecast-literacyswell

Written by the Atalaia team. Atlas of the Atlantic. Method at /about.